The ride out to Otavalo in the Mystery Van that Carmen is renting to us wasn't bad. It took about two hours on these windy, mountain roads. Being the driver, I didn't get too long a look at the scenery, but the few glimpses I did catch garnered pretty, expansive views of the valley.
When we got to Otavalo, we just parked on the street. There was no driving around for an hour looking for a spot like there is every time we go to DC on a weekend. Our guidebook recommends not parking on the street, but we carried our valuables and covered what we left in the car with a blanket. Supposedly, whenever you park a kid is supposed to pop up out of the street and offer to watch your car for a few centavos. But that didn't happen.
Then, the long day of carrying began. The market stretched up and down just about every street in town, but from the start, Jonah wasn't interested. Though, he did perk up for a while (i.e., he walked) when we brought him a hand-made, painted, sheep-skin drum. And once Maya got the few things she had her heart set on (a shirt, some dolls, jewelry) she wasn't interested either. So, after we ate lunch, which was a tilapia fish fried right there in front of us and served with a couple of potatoes (cost $1.50 to $2.00, depending on the size of the fish) Opa and I set off to find a hotel with the kids, and Rebecca and PoPo set out to do some hard core shopping.
The hotel we finally settled on was called Hostal Aya Huma, in the town of Peguche. Peguche is a few kilometers north of Otavalo, and is famous for this sacred waterfall that we visited on Sunday. It is walking distance from the Hostal Aya Huma, if you don't have kids. Opa and I tried to get there with Maya and Jonah, but after getting about halfway, we decided to turn back. We had to bribe Maya and Jonah with ice cream so they would actually walk home, instead of demanding to be carried. Our arms and backs hadn't yet recovered from the few hours we spent earlier in the day carrying them around the market.
The waterfall is the spot of ritual bathing for certain festivals celebrating the summer solstice. I think ritual bathing means skinny dipping in Spanish. On our way up the trail to the falls, we saw some American college girls in bikinis coming back from their own brand of ritual bathing. I figure that probably tops what we'd see at the festivals, so this was probably our one and only visit to the falls. Though, there were some pretty, peaceful-looking campgrounds on the way out to the falls that we would have to be crazy to consider trying with Maya and Jonah. But, we sometimes get a bit zany, so who knows.
The Hostal Aya Huma was pretty cool. My rudimentary Spanish managed to secure us two rooms (one for Rebecca/me, one for Opa/PoPo) each with private bath and double bed. We drew straws for the kids and Rebecca and I ended up with Maya between us all night. It brought Rebecca and I back to the old days, when it was only Maya between us in bed for nearly three years, instead of both Maya and Jonah. I have to say, she's not as restless a sleeper as she used to be.
The hotel rooms were set overlooking this lush river bank, giving it a jungle feel. There were some short trails on the hotel grounds that we walked that the kids enjoyed. I told them we were hiking in the hopes that in the future, it would stir some interest in that past time for them. So far in my family-life, whenever I say "Who wants to go for a hike?", no one answers. Not even Rebecca.
On Sunday morning, after our visit to the falls, we hung around and ate empanadas con queso (with sugar sprinkled on top, so the kids couldn't get enough) before heading to the leather- making village of Cotacachi. In Cotocachi, I finally brought something that is made in Ecuador besides beer - a leather change purse. I also brought a wallet because the one I have had for the last - decade? - is finally starting to tear at the seams. Rebecca and PoPo, not sated from their few hours alone in the Otavalo market, were really lathering at the mouth to hit the leather shops for boots, purses, bags, jackets, pants, etc., but the dang kids were hungry and tired.
For the past few months Rebecca has been getting this online newsletter from a couple that lives in Ecuador. I can't find the link right now, but check back in a day or two if interested. I'm sure Rebecca will link it. She is always drooling over the properties they list for sale, the lifestyle, the food, the romance, etc., etc. The hotel and restaurant the couple owns - called Le Meson de Flores (the House of Flowers) is in Cotacachi. So, she was psyched for us to eat there.
I had some qualms about taking our kids into a fancy restaurant, especially when they are tired and hungry, but it turned out okay. The restaurant wasn't that fancy, it was nearly empty, and hotel itself was pretty. Ten or fifteen second floor rooms (with balconies) set around an open courtyard. Whenever Rebecca and I talk about having our own place built, right after we discuss the wet bar, we talk about having an open courtyard. The kids had fun exploring the rooms and wrap-around balconies while we waited for our food. And, when the food came, I think they actually ate some of it. Incidentally, Opa had pigs feet soup to start. I forgot to ask him how it was, but I did notice that he left half a bowl.
After we ate, we left for Quito. Rebecca and PoPo were disappointed they didn't get to spend more money shopping, but I wasn't feeling that great and wanted to get home. So, you see, we don't always do things as dictated by our small flock (Maya and Jonah). Sometimes the sheepherder gets to decide.
Today (Monday) was a pretty busy day, too. It was Maya and Jonah's first day at school - which went pretty well. My in-laws and I sorted out (for the most part) our respective Spanish language schools. And the best news of all - my in-laws are probably moving out on Thursday! Hahahahaha. I'm only kidding. It's a shame they are moving to their own place (I think they read this blog - not getting enough of me in person on a daily basis). Seriously, my mother in law cooks and whenever Jonah has to poop, he wants Opa to sit in the stinky bathroom with him. So, we are going to be missing them a lot when they move five or eight Ecovia stops south of here. I guess we'll see them though. They don't know anyone else in town.
Monday, June 9, 2008
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7 comments:
aaahh now i understand why Rebecca wrote that it wasn't as calm and tranquil a day as your previous blog made it out to be......when you said the hotel was called Hostel it reminded me of the horrific, gorey, nightmarish movie i saw about some out of towners getting a room at this hostel and getting tortured until they died a gruesome death. Sorry just thought I would share. Otherwise loved the rest of the blog.
I think Rebecca should go back to the market and buy me some stuff. just a thought.
christine
Rebecca did mention at the leather stores that you and cathy would like some of the bags. but alas, none were purchased. blame it on your niece and nephew (and me, i guess).
WHAT........!!!!!! Go back Go back.
Christine
I definitely want to go back! There was so much beautiful stuff!!!
I like beautiful stuff. Bring me something.
Well then I say you go back this weekend......It is so freakin HOT over here in the states. You missed a heat wave. 100* for 3 straight days. Now it is a chilly 85*
We went out and brought a blow up pool for the backyard.
Chris
Boris,
We aren't buying you anything until you change your name.
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